31. Dezember
19:20 Uhr
In Komsomolsk besteige ich einen Zug Richtung Westen. Entlang der Baikal-Amur-Magistrale (BAM) werde ich mich zum nördlichen Ende des Baikalsees begeben, mit einem Umstieg in der Station Bestúshewo.
Mein Zug fährt von Gleis 2 ab. Um zu ihm zu gelangen, müssen die Passagiere durch einen auf Gleis 1 stehenden Train pass: into and on the other side.
Before entering controls the train conductor as usual passport and ticket. "Are you sure you want to Bestúshewo?" she asks me. Sure, I get there and then, my connection and I see my ticket. "Are you quite sure where to change? In Bestúshewo is nothing, absolutely nothing, just taiga. There is not even a station building to warm up." The housekeeper screened as indicated on the ticket departure time. "Four-hour stay on the platform, but as you freeze to death." A while later, the train manager is brought in a humorous man with a Ukrainian accent, the officer told me about his four years in Magdeburg. Er betrachtet meine Fahrkarten und empfielt: "Steigen Sie lieber in Tynda um. Dort halten beide Züge auch, und es gibt einen ordentlichen Bahnhof."
22:00 Uhr
Ich bin im offenen Liegewagen ("plazkártnji wagón") weitgehend allein, wer sonst verbringt schon den Silvesterabend freiwillig im Zug? Die Neujahresfeier ist für Russen so wichtig wie für die Deutschen der Abend des 24. Dezember, ein Fest mit Geschenken, Tannenbaum und Zusammentreffen der ganzen Familie. Ich bin etwas begegnungsmüde, verkrieche mich auf meine obere seitliche Pritsche ("wérchnoje bakawóje mjésta") und erlebe den Jahreswechsel somit schlafend.
1. Januar
7:00 Uhr
After getting up I'll get the obligatory glass of tea, which is issued in Russian long-distance trains always free. The train shows me the secret of the well-heated cars: each car has a boiler that is heated with coal. The heating of the hot water boiler for tea is done electrically, and always when the train leaves, so after a long stay, the water is not really hot and you have to wait a while.
clock 11:00
Russia from his sleep Neujahresrausch.
My train trundles along with comfortable 40 kilometers per hour through the snow-covered taiga. Cities there is no way. Approximately every 6 hours is a settlement with a longer stay, which I use constantly to me to represent the platform's legs or to walk a short distance through the apartment buildings: usually there is a center of social housing, on the edge of wooden houses and a few smoking factory chimneys. Once or twice an hour, the train stays on a minute, I often see only a couple of station building and nothing else - from here to serve track workers in the stage and there are double-track passing places. For the BAM route is largely single track. The 1500 miles from Komsomolsk Tynda to be driven by a daily passenger train each way. Duration: 36 hours, ticket price: 1272 rubles (32 euros).
The Clock 13:40 nice Ukrainian-born train conductor walked through the car and sits down for a chat to me. Whether because the track here is worth, in an area where there are far and wide, almost no people, I ask him. "BAM is actually a loss-making companies," he says, "but it was built with the prospect at some point to exploit the vast natural resources here."
sits opposite me in the four-compartment a fairly old man, limping and marked by life, he speaks vaguely and alignment between, I try to walk the talk with him out of his way. He added the move is via Moscow to Kiev, no family or relatives, and therefore, he thinks, no reason, the New Year s Day zu feiern. Bevor er aussteigt, frage ich ihn beiläufig nach seinem Alter und bin geschockt von der Antwort: sechsundvierzig.
16 Uhr
Halbstündiger Aufenthalt in der Siedlung Fewrálsk. Ich suche ein Geschäft auf und verpflege mich für die weitere Reise: Brot, Käse, Tomaten, Schokolade, Schwarztee und Schnellverzehrnudeln "Doschirák" in Styrophorverpackung, die nur mit heißem Wasser aufgegossen werden müssen.
2. Januar
8:15 Uhr
Ankunft in Tynda, die mir schon vom Umstieg im Sommer her bekannte "Hauptstadt der BAM", ein Eisenbahnknotenpunkt mit 35000 Einwohnern mitten in der Taiga, von hier aus kann man nördlich Richtung Jakutsk or go south on the route of the Trans-Siberian Railway. A look at the temperature display on the station building tells me that I experience my previous record freezing temperatures: -32.
9:00
clock I sit in the waiting room and think about how I spend 5 hours until the departure of my connecting train. A young policeman comes up to me and demanded my passport, "Ah, from Germany," his face lights up. "What did she wind up here?" We chat a little, he would like to know what "washy dokjuménti, pazháluista" is in German ("Your documents Please") and wishes me a good trip. A little later he comes back - has just finished his shift, if I had no desire to walk with him through the city?
I am pleased to offer, but are not -32 degrees temperature at which you can stroll through the streets like, so I invite law - this is the young man - homecoming short hand for tea in the apartment he and his sister, plus family. Is he satisfied with his work? "Yes, I soon came into contact with women!" I laugh. "Sure, the smart uniform makes an impression ..." Law works for the transport militia guarding the station and patrolled by the trains. "We Russians love the Germans. In general, our people do have a common origin." The Americans scolded the young man: "They support drug cultivation in Afghanistan, so that Russia is being poisoned slowly with this stuff. "Europe is Russia's role model." The Chinese are closer, but that we do actually have nothing to do. "He accompanied me back to the station." Very pleasant to meet you! "
Well, because I say so one Russian police are corrupt and all you had to make them careful.
clock 13:45
The train to Severobaikalsk is jam-packed. My car is warm as an open deck a sauna, anywhere people sit or lie, "Do you want to beer?"., asks me a fat, lean type sitting across from me. I am from. "Ty botany, shto li" (such as "What are you because of a nerd "), is his answer. I take my valuables and forgave me in the completely empty dining car where I immerse myself in tea and vanilla wafers in the history of Russian development of Siberia (Gudrun Ziegler," The Eighth Continent ", Ullstein 2006) .
in 1582 exceeded Cossack captain Yermak by the powerful Russian merchant family Stroganov first time the Urals, and even 60 years later reached the first Cossack expedition to the Pacific - not a bad time for 4000 km and the then Transport ...
15:00 clock
After a while, I'm not the only one in the dining car, a Russian at the next table ordered a menu. A clearly Contact seeking Azerbaijanians sits down with him, the two get to know each encounter, with vodka.
... and in 1697 will be conquered Kamchatka Russia - within 100 years of plenty, the country quadrupled its territory, a unique operation in world history ...
I look up from my reading and rub my eyes, the Russians and the Azerbaijan fight, the one running the blood from the nose, the other has beaten bloody lips, they prove with coarsest epithets, and when the Russians nor portion comes to nationalism ("You're not Russian, I'm not that tumbles in my country ...") The dishes on the table, the waiter tried to to separate fighting cocks. Trigger was probably that of the Azerbaijan had no money to pay for his food.
I tarry to the other end of the dining car and wonder about the fact that grown men can hit like little children.
third January
8:00 clock
At breakfast I learn Mikhail Jurewitsch who works as a "Korrekziónnyi pedagog with disabilities. I find it immediately on his drawn-out, vowels in the protracted debate, which is considered type for Moscow and have on my students spotted in Khabarovsk, when we the subject of dialects in Russia, "treated. With him on the road is his 15-year-old son Mikhail Mikhailovich, who taught German at school, the father will necessarily mean that it is up to me and talks to me, after he asks me: Well, how is the German of my son? The two are my first encounter with Russians who travel by train for purely tourist interest of their country! From Moscow to Nérjungi and right back, with no specific target, only to find himself 10 days to look at the scenery and take pictures ... They are after all! And I thought it only make (mostly German) tourists.
clock 10:00
It has become clear, and I enjoy the view of the grand, broad, lonely peaks of Stanovoi Mountains, which wohl landschaftlich faszinierendste Streckenstück der BAM.
15:30 Uhr
Nach 26 Stunden von Tynda aus (Fahrkartenpreis: 1310 Rubel) Ankunft in Sewerobaikalsk. Ich freue mich auf Bewegung und beneide meine Mitreisenden nicht, die noch 4 Tage bis Moskau unterwegs sind.
Von meinem Reiseziel bin ich etwas enttäuscht: wenig Schnee, erstaunliche Wärme (nur -12) und ein Baikalsee, dessen Oberfläche überhaupt nicht zugeeist ist, wie ich erhofft hatte. Ich begebe mich - schon zum dritten Mal - in das für individuell reisende Rucksacktouristen sehr zu empfehlende Baikal Trail Hostel (http://www.baikaltrail.ru/ru/hostels/index.html) und freue mich auf den Begrüßungstee mit Anna Marjásowa.
19:20 Uhr
In Komsomolsk besteige ich einen Zug Richtung Westen. Entlang der Baikal-Amur-Magistrale (BAM) werde ich mich zum nördlichen Ende des Baikalsees begeben, mit einem Umstieg in der Station Bestúshewo.
Mein Zug fährt von Gleis 2 ab. Um zu ihm zu gelangen, müssen die Passagiere durch einen auf Gleis 1 stehenden Train pass: into and on the other side.
Before entering controls the train conductor as usual passport and ticket. "Are you sure you want to Bestúshewo?" she asks me. Sure, I get there and then, my connection and I see my ticket. "Are you quite sure where to change? In Bestúshewo is nothing, absolutely nothing, just taiga. There is not even a station building to warm up." The housekeeper screened as indicated on the ticket departure time. "Four-hour stay on the platform, but as you freeze to death." A while later, the train manager is brought in a humorous man with a Ukrainian accent, the officer told me about his four years in Magdeburg. Er betrachtet meine Fahrkarten und empfielt: "Steigen Sie lieber in Tynda um. Dort halten beide Züge auch, und es gibt einen ordentlichen Bahnhof."
22:00 Uhr
Ich bin im offenen Liegewagen ("plazkártnji wagón") weitgehend allein, wer sonst verbringt schon den Silvesterabend freiwillig im Zug? Die Neujahresfeier ist für Russen so wichtig wie für die Deutschen der Abend des 24. Dezember, ein Fest mit Geschenken, Tannenbaum und Zusammentreffen der ganzen Familie. Ich bin etwas begegnungsmüde, verkrieche mich auf meine obere seitliche Pritsche ("wérchnoje bakawóje mjésta") und erlebe den Jahreswechsel somit schlafend.
1. Januar
7:00 Uhr
After getting up I'll get the obligatory glass of tea, which is issued in Russian long-distance trains always free. The train shows me the secret of the well-heated cars: each car has a boiler that is heated with coal. The heating of the hot water boiler for tea is done electrically, and always when the train leaves, so after a long stay, the water is not really hot and you have to wait a while.
clock 11:00
Russia from his sleep Neujahresrausch.
My train trundles along with comfortable 40 kilometers per hour through the snow-covered taiga. Cities there is no way. Approximately every 6 hours is a settlement with a longer stay, which I use constantly to me to represent the platform's legs or to walk a short distance through the apartment buildings: usually there is a center of social housing, on the edge of wooden houses and a few smoking factory chimneys. Once or twice an hour, the train stays on a minute, I often see only a couple of station building and nothing else - from here to serve track workers in the stage and there are double-track passing places. For the BAM route is largely single track. The 1500 miles from Komsomolsk Tynda to be driven by a daily passenger train each way. Duration: 36 hours, ticket price: 1272 rubles (32 euros).
The Clock 13:40 nice Ukrainian-born train conductor walked through the car and sits down for a chat to me. Whether because the track here is worth, in an area where there are far and wide, almost no people, I ask him. "BAM is actually a loss-making companies," he says, "but it was built with the prospect at some point to exploit the vast natural resources here."
sits opposite me in the four-compartment a fairly old man, limping and marked by life, he speaks vaguely and alignment between, I try to walk the talk with him out of his way. He added the move is via Moscow to Kiev, no family or relatives, and therefore, he thinks, no reason, the New Year s Day zu feiern. Bevor er aussteigt, frage ich ihn beiläufig nach seinem Alter und bin geschockt von der Antwort: sechsundvierzig.
16 Uhr
Halbstündiger Aufenthalt in der Siedlung Fewrálsk. Ich suche ein Geschäft auf und verpflege mich für die weitere Reise: Brot, Käse, Tomaten, Schokolade, Schwarztee und Schnellverzehrnudeln "Doschirák" in Styrophorverpackung, die nur mit heißem Wasser aufgegossen werden müssen.
2. Januar
8:15 Uhr
Ankunft in Tynda, die mir schon vom Umstieg im Sommer her bekannte "Hauptstadt der BAM", ein Eisenbahnknotenpunkt mit 35000 Einwohnern mitten in der Taiga, von hier aus kann man nördlich Richtung Jakutsk or go south on the route of the Trans-Siberian Railway. A look at the temperature display on the station building tells me that I experience my previous record freezing temperatures: -32.
9:00
clock I sit in the waiting room and think about how I spend 5 hours until the departure of my connecting train. A young policeman comes up to me and demanded my passport, "Ah, from Germany," his face lights up. "What did she wind up here?" We chat a little, he would like to know what "washy dokjuménti, pazháluista" is in German ("Your documents Please") and wishes me a good trip. A little later he comes back - has just finished his shift, if I had no desire to walk with him through the city?
I am pleased to offer, but are not -32 degrees temperature at which you can stroll through the streets like, so I invite law - this is the young man - homecoming short hand for tea in the apartment he and his sister, plus family. Is he satisfied with his work? "Yes, I soon came into contact with women!" I laugh. "Sure, the smart uniform makes an impression ..." Law works for the transport militia guarding the station and patrolled by the trains. "We Russians love the Germans. In general, our people do have a common origin." The Americans scolded the young man: "They support drug cultivation in Afghanistan, so that Russia is being poisoned slowly with this stuff. "Europe is Russia's role model." The Chinese are closer, but that we do actually have nothing to do. "He accompanied me back to the station." Very pleasant to meet you! "
Well, because I say so one Russian police are corrupt and all you had to make them careful.
clock 13:45
The train to Severobaikalsk is jam-packed. My car is warm as an open deck a sauna, anywhere people sit or lie, "Do you want to beer?"., asks me a fat, lean type sitting across from me. I am from. "Ty botany, shto li" (such as "What are you because of a nerd "), is his answer. I take my valuables and forgave me in the completely empty dining car where I immerse myself in tea and vanilla wafers in the history of Russian development of Siberia (Gudrun Ziegler," The Eighth Continent ", Ullstein 2006) .
in 1582 exceeded Cossack captain Yermak by the powerful Russian merchant family Stroganov first time the Urals, and even 60 years later reached the first Cossack expedition to the Pacific - not a bad time for 4000 km and the then Transport ...
15:00 clock
After a while, I'm not the only one in the dining car, a Russian at the next table ordered a menu. A clearly Contact seeking Azerbaijanians sits down with him, the two get to know each encounter, with vodka.
... and in 1697 will be conquered Kamchatka Russia - within 100 years of plenty, the country quadrupled its territory, a unique operation in world history ...
I look up from my reading and rub my eyes, the Russians and the Azerbaijan fight, the one running the blood from the nose, the other has beaten bloody lips, they prove with coarsest epithets, and when the Russians nor portion comes to nationalism ("You're not Russian, I'm not that tumbles in my country ...") The dishes on the table, the waiter tried to to separate fighting cocks. Trigger was probably that of the Azerbaijan had no money to pay for his food.
I tarry to the other end of the dining car and wonder about the fact that grown men can hit like little children.
third January
8:00 clock
At breakfast I learn Mikhail Jurewitsch who works as a "Korrekziónnyi pedagog with disabilities. I find it immediately on his drawn-out, vowels in the protracted debate, which is considered type for Moscow and have on my students spotted in Khabarovsk, when we the subject of dialects in Russia, "treated. With him on the road is his 15-year-old son Mikhail Mikhailovich, who taught German at school, the father will necessarily mean that it is up to me and talks to me, after he asks me: Well, how is the German of my son? The two are my first encounter with Russians who travel by train for purely tourist interest of their country! From Moscow to Nérjungi and right back, with no specific target, only to find himself 10 days to look at the scenery and take pictures ... They are after all! And I thought it only make (mostly German) tourists.
clock 10:00
It has become clear, and I enjoy the view of the grand, broad, lonely peaks of Stanovoi Mountains, which wohl landschaftlich faszinierendste Streckenstück der BAM.
15:30 Uhr
Nach 26 Stunden von Tynda aus (Fahrkartenpreis: 1310 Rubel) Ankunft in Sewerobaikalsk. Ich freue mich auf Bewegung und beneide meine Mitreisenden nicht, die noch 4 Tage bis Moskau unterwegs sind.
Von meinem Reiseziel bin ich etwas enttäuscht: wenig Schnee, erstaunliche Wärme (nur -12) und ein Baikalsee, dessen Oberfläche überhaupt nicht zugeeist ist, wie ich erhofft hatte. Ich begebe mich - schon zum dritten Mal - in das für individuell reisende Rucksacktouristen sehr zu empfehlende Baikal Trail Hostel (http://www.baikaltrail.ru/ru/hostels/index.html) und freue mich auf den Begrüßungstee mit Anna Marjásowa.
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