third January
I'm in the Baikal Trail Hostel in Severobaikalsk not the only guest. Besides me there is a young couple from a half away Zugreisetag Bratsk - me from a stopover on the way people still remember. Pasha has so far been mainly in India and the move will now start to explore with his girlfriend Tanya the surrounding area. When Anna told me
Welcome tea Marjasowa of their plans to set up in Severobaikalsk a Waldorf kindergarten. Tomorrow she will go to Krasnoyarsk to a seminar on Waldorf education. I am surprised that this direction seems to play a certain role in Russia. Anna wants her 4 year old son Michael does not send a state school, "there is driven off the desire to learn." I found interesting to know that there is no compulsory education in Russia as in Germany, that parents can teach their children at home and have to send them only to the tests at a school. In Irkutsk there is a great Waldorf school, maybe Anna will move there if it is as far as Micah. To my language barriers to get when I try to explain to her a few basic ideas of Anthroposophy - but the attempt alone is fun.
A welcome walk the Baikal shore makes my initial disappointment, if not disappearance of the frozen surface and I am excited about the grotesque shapes, the ice forms on the banks - bizarre hills and grotesque formations, in some places for many tens of meters into the lake.
4th January
the morning I take a trip to Goudzhekít. The logo consisting of a locomotive and a wagon train is mainly filled with railway workers and some other Russian trippers who like me want to hot springs. The train goes into a half hour to the west into the mountains. After the exit you can see other than the walled-station building at first did nothing. After one kilometer walk through the forest is a kind of holiday homes and a log cabin, which is connected to a steam-water basin - the spa, hot water directly from the earth, for 100 rubles you can refresh himself for half an hour.
invite me in the afternoon, Anna and her father on a skiing trip Yevgeny one from a not-too-high mountain. I ask Eugene to give me his oldest, most braking skis. I put on my shoes "Bachíly" (a kind of leggings to go but to the entire shoe around). This time it's fun and I come to the conclusion - even things I can not at all are to learn.
5th January
In the morning I go dark for 60 rubles a marshrutka in the 40 km south of village Severobaikalsk Baikálskoje that I am still in the summer of her because of its incredibly beautiful location in your memory. Upon arrival, it has become just bright, to my surprise, the frozen Lake Baikal here on the shore several hundred yards beyond. Above the village is a smoky smell, the smoke stacks, most of the small wooden houses, over the whole area is a wonderful silence. I walk around the surrounding hills, after a while, catch the first dogs to bark and motorcycles to rattle on. Because of my three pairs of socks and my good Pukhov I'm freezing even after several-hour period.
welcomes me back to stay in the Nina Sergeyevna Tatarikowa Ulitsa Sovetskaya-21. Along with dinner, breakfast and Banja I pay 600 rubles. My dream, I pass on to the Banjabesuch between the snow goes, unfortunately, not true, there's hardly any with her in the yard. Nina Sergeyevna told that there are many earthquakes in the Baikal, but it has really felt in the past 30 years, only three. In the evening her husband came back from the woods with a truck fuel, the inspection of the Zobelfallen unfortunately result - no catches.
6th January
Back in the city, I'll take a long walk on frozen, snow-covered lake Baikal to the south. In view of the large snow-white face and the grotesque forms of ice i have to think the expeditions of any polar explorer. After several miles, I decide to go on the frozen river Týja inland, to keep them going through an arc back to Severobaikalsk. This proved to be careless mistakes - a few hundred meters is happening to my right suddenly the ice and the (not deep, but torrential) water to see, I can not, therefore, as planned over the bank back, and the hoped-bridge is not forever, but instead it is dark and the river seems to dahinzuschlängeln forever.
Well, sometime road bridge and arrived yet. But something weird was it. To some degree the experience of untouched nature "Romance" is, but there is a moment when it hits in threatening to - if I removed myself from civilization a bit more than I can bear.
7th January
Baikal Trail Hostel owner Eugene Marjasow asks his guests like what they have plans for the next day, and should there be none, he makes an interesting proposal. For now, he organized for Passover, Tanya and me a driver for us little money in his Nissan Terrano with the thermal sources in Dzelínda placed 100 km to the northeast and then to the village Wérchnaja Saímka.
The thermal springs in Dzelínda are much more brilliant than in Goudzhekit, because some of them are free - in the woods hot water comes out of the rock and you can swim in a pool hewn wood, while all around the rigid nature of ice and snow. Great! If I get a few minutes from the water and I immediately rub with snow and then dry with a towel, then comes a moment when I can run naked through the taiga at -20 degrees and it does not feel cold, but just excellent.
lasts Unfortunately, this moment, as all the great moments in life, only quite short.
The village lies on the river Wérchnaja Saímka Níshnaja Angara, which flows from the north in the Baikal. It was in the 20's founded by exiled from western Russia kulaks (rich peasants). Today, the BAM route is at a distance by a few kilometers. Immediately after the entrance to the village falling on the disproportionately large school building. We ordered a lunch at the ornithologist and former teacher Lyudmila Mikhailovna. "It used to be here full and happy, now dying from the village," she says. From 2,000 inhabitants at the time of the BAM construction have remained left over 700 - still a new school was built, even at the German erste Fremdsprache ist. Elektrizität gibt es seit 1980, Handyempfang bis heute kaum.
Ich habe den Eindruck, es gibt hier wohl in jedem Dorf zumindest eine Person, die bereit ist, Touristen zu bewirten und ihnen die Geschichte des Ortes zu erzählen. Irgendwie ist das jedesmal spannend.
Auf der Rückfahrt kommen wir durch Nizhneangarsk und machen noch einen kurzen Stopp am im Herbst neu errichteten Denkmal "Nördlichster Punkt des Baikal".
I'm in the Baikal Trail Hostel in Severobaikalsk not the only guest. Besides me there is a young couple from a half away Zugreisetag Bratsk - me from a stopover on the way people still remember. Pasha has so far been mainly in India and the move will now start to explore with his girlfriend Tanya the surrounding area. When Anna told me
Welcome tea Marjasowa of their plans to set up in Severobaikalsk a Waldorf kindergarten. Tomorrow she will go to Krasnoyarsk to a seminar on Waldorf education. I am surprised that this direction seems to play a certain role in Russia. Anna wants her 4 year old son Michael does not send a state school, "there is driven off the desire to learn." I found interesting to know that there is no compulsory education in Russia as in Germany, that parents can teach their children at home and have to send them only to the tests at a school. In Irkutsk there is a great Waldorf school, maybe Anna will move there if it is as far as Micah. To my language barriers to get when I try to explain to her a few basic ideas of Anthroposophy - but the attempt alone is fun.
A welcome walk the Baikal shore makes my initial disappointment, if not disappearance of the frozen surface and I am excited about the grotesque shapes, the ice forms on the banks - bizarre hills and grotesque formations, in some places for many tens of meters into the lake.
4th January
the morning I take a trip to Goudzhekít. The logo consisting of a locomotive and a wagon train is mainly filled with railway workers and some other Russian trippers who like me want to hot springs. The train goes into a half hour to the west into the mountains. After the exit you can see other than the walled-station building at first did nothing. After one kilometer walk through the forest is a kind of holiday homes and a log cabin, which is connected to a steam-water basin - the spa, hot water directly from the earth, for 100 rubles you can refresh himself for half an hour.
invite me in the afternoon, Anna and her father on a skiing trip Yevgeny one from a not-too-high mountain. I ask Eugene to give me his oldest, most braking skis. I put on my shoes "Bachíly" (a kind of leggings to go but to the entire shoe around). This time it's fun and I come to the conclusion - even things I can not at all are to learn.
5th January
In the morning I go dark for 60 rubles a marshrutka in the 40 km south of village Severobaikalsk Baikálskoje that I am still in the summer of her because of its incredibly beautiful location in your memory. Upon arrival, it has become just bright, to my surprise, the frozen Lake Baikal here on the shore several hundred yards beyond. Above the village is a smoky smell, the smoke stacks, most of the small wooden houses, over the whole area is a wonderful silence. I walk around the surrounding hills, after a while, catch the first dogs to bark and motorcycles to rattle on. Because of my three pairs of socks and my good Pukhov I'm freezing even after several-hour period.
welcomes me back to stay in the Nina Sergeyevna Tatarikowa Ulitsa Sovetskaya-21. Along with dinner, breakfast and Banja I pay 600 rubles. My dream, I pass on to the Banjabesuch between the snow goes, unfortunately, not true, there's hardly any with her in the yard. Nina Sergeyevna told that there are many earthquakes in the Baikal, but it has really felt in the past 30 years, only three. In the evening her husband came back from the woods with a truck fuel, the inspection of the Zobelfallen unfortunately result - no catches.
6th January
Back in the city, I'll take a long walk on frozen, snow-covered lake Baikal to the south. In view of the large snow-white face and the grotesque forms of ice i have to think the expeditions of any polar explorer. After several miles, I decide to go on the frozen river Týja inland, to keep them going through an arc back to Severobaikalsk. This proved to be careless mistakes - a few hundred meters is happening to my right suddenly the ice and the (not deep, but torrential) water to see, I can not, therefore, as planned over the bank back, and the hoped-bridge is not forever, but instead it is dark and the river seems to dahinzuschlängeln forever.
Well, sometime road bridge and arrived yet. But something weird was it. To some degree the experience of untouched nature "Romance" is, but there is a moment when it hits in threatening to - if I removed myself from civilization a bit more than I can bear.
7th January
Baikal Trail Hostel owner Eugene Marjasow asks his guests like what they have plans for the next day, and should there be none, he makes an interesting proposal. For now, he organized for Passover, Tanya and me a driver for us little money in his Nissan Terrano with the thermal sources in Dzelínda placed 100 km to the northeast and then to the village Wérchnaja Saímka.
The thermal springs in Dzelínda are much more brilliant than in Goudzhekit, because some of them are free - in the woods hot water comes out of the rock and you can swim in a pool hewn wood, while all around the rigid nature of ice and snow. Great! If I get a few minutes from the water and I immediately rub with snow and then dry with a towel, then comes a moment when I can run naked through the taiga at -20 degrees and it does not feel cold, but just excellent.
lasts Unfortunately, this moment, as all the great moments in life, only quite short.
The village lies on the river Wérchnaja Saímka Níshnaja Angara, which flows from the north in the Baikal. It was in the 20's founded by exiled from western Russia kulaks (rich peasants). Today, the BAM route is at a distance by a few kilometers. Immediately after the entrance to the village falling on the disproportionately large school building. We ordered a lunch at the ornithologist and former teacher Lyudmila Mikhailovna. "It used to be here full and happy, now dying from the village," she says. From 2,000 inhabitants at the time of the BAM construction have remained left over 700 - still a new school was built, even at the German erste Fremdsprache ist. Elektrizität gibt es seit 1980, Handyempfang bis heute kaum.
Ich habe den Eindruck, es gibt hier wohl in jedem Dorf zumindest eine Person, die bereit ist, Touristen zu bewirten und ihnen die Geschichte des Ortes zu erzählen. Irgendwie ist das jedesmal spannend.
Auf der Rückfahrt kommen wir durch Nizhneangarsk und machen noch einen kurzen Stopp am im Herbst neu errichteten Denkmal "Nördlichster Punkt des Baikal".
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