Saturday, January 29, 2011

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The exploits of Yerofey Chabarow

Am Chabarowsker Hauptbahnhof gibt es zwei Denkmäler. Direkt am Bahnsteig thront auf einer Säule ein nach Moskau blickender doppelköpfiger russischer Adler. Eine Tafel verrät, dass dieses Denkmal an den Bau der Ussuri-Bahn von 1891 bis 1897 erinnnert. Es war das erste fertiggestellte Teilstück der Trans-Siberian Railway runs between Khabarovsk and Vladivostok. Based on the frequent use of the mark and hardness of the letter "i" can be seen from the Russian spelling before 1917.
in the square outside the station sits in the larger than life namesake of the city: Jerofei Chabarow, a Cossack leader who secured the Amur region in 1650 as the first with fortresses for the Tsar. In an effort to learn more about these people and the history of the region in general, I headed on yesterday's Saturday (once again) at the home located near to the River Museum.

This time I tried it at the counter with a joke. "Yes uzhe prewratílsa w russkowo" I said, without hiding my accent, "I've already turned into a Russian! I have no Russian citizenship, but I live in Khabarovsk speak Russian ..." The lady smiles and calls her colleague. "What we do with him, maybe 200 rubles?" And so I got a ticket for almost locals price (150 rubles), but significantly cheaper than "foreign visitors" (350 rubles).
The Khabarovsk regional museum is very extensive and modern, there are rooms on geology (with lots of minerals and meteorites from the Moon), wildlife and the indigenous people, most of the space history of the Amur region has for its development by a Russian. "The result exploring trains Chabarows was the actual connection of the Amur region of Russia, because the entire population on Amurufer began to pay taxes to the Tsar, "visitors learn. Interestingly, I also found that the Stalinist labor camps (GULAG) a separate department dedicated to which is abundant especially in the Far East was. In this connection it remarkable that this year the "Gulag Archipelago" by Solzhenizyn an abridged version of a must in Russian schools is one. The focus on their own dark past in Russia seems to be much to be more advanced than I thought before.

home, I immersed myself once more in reading des Buches von Gudrun Ziegler über die Eroberung Sibiriens ("Der Achte Kontinent"). Was ich hier las, erstaunte mich dann doch etwas:
"Für die Russen wurde es nun zwingend, die reichen Gebiete am Amur für das Zarenreich zu sichern. Diesen Plan zu verwirklichen, übernahm Jerofei Chabarow. Auch er war eine jener Pioniergestalten, deren Taten später verklärt werden sollten, deren Handeln aber recht fragwürdig war."
Und weiter: "Zeitgenossen erinnerten sich, dass sie 'die Eingeborenen wie Bäume fällten' und dass Frauen und Kinder zu Hunderten verschleppt wurden. Noch Jahrzehnte später sprach man im Amurgebiet von den Russen nur als 'menschliche Teufel'. - Unterdessen waren Berichte über Khabarovsk atrocities penetrated to Moscow. The Tsar ordered immediately to an explanation of the events. Under heavy guard Chabarow was brought to Moscow to stand trial there. After one year the case was closed. Two hundred years later named after him, a city on the left Amurufer: Khabarovsk ... "
It is amazing how can differentiate the story, depending on who writes it, I have here the text of a Russian-language guided tour of Khabarovsk, in! which it, inter alia, states: "For the indigenous tribes of the Amur, which led a nomadic life, was the contact with the Russians to discover a new world and a protection against the aggressors aus der Mandschurei."

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