Tuesday, January 11, 2011

German Tablecloths History

in Back to Khabarovsk

8. January

come just before I left, two new guests to the Baikal Trail Hostel in Severobaikalsk: Kate from England, who currently works as a volunteer in Irkutsk at GBT (GBT - Great Baikal Trail, the project, the Baikal around a track to and environmental, individual tourism build in der Region zu fördern), sowie Gloria aus Spanien, die an der Irkutsker Uni Spanisch unterrichtet. Die beiden sind mit dem "Lonely Planet Russia"- Reiseführer unterwegs auf einem Rundtrip durch Sibirien. Ein netter Abschluss meines Aufenthaltes, mit den beiden vor der riesengroßen Russland-Wandkarte im Korridor zu stehen und über bereits besuchte und mögliche künftige Reiseziele zu spekulieren!

9. Januar

Wie schon auf dem Hinweg, so habe ich auch diesmal einen Zwischenaufenthalt in Tynda. Diesmal fahre ich allerdings nicht mit der BAM weiter nach Komsomolsk, sondern nehme die südliche Strecke, die Transsib direkt bis Chabarowsk. Gelangweilt stehe ich im Bahnhofsgebäude herum und read the digital display with the train departure times: 9 January, after Khabarovsk 20:32 clock, track 2 .. Yes, this is probably my train appears, in Russian railway stations accessible Moscow time, here I must add on for five hours. I dig out my ticket and compare: Tynda-Khabarovsk, 10 January, 20:32 clock, all right ... But then I stumble on the date: 9 January, 10 January? I've actually made a mistake by 24 hours! With this I can take my ticket tomorrow! A little nervous I'm going
to switch to to exchange the ticket. Yes, in today's train are not "Plazkárty" more free, only coupe places on it if I pay 1900 rubles'm ready, please. I do not want to spend another 24 hours in Tynda and traveling to Khabarovsk for 3200 instead of 1300 rubles.
annoying.

10th January

The upper berths in a Russian Coupe cars are more spacious and comfortable than the open in a couchette, you can even sit up. The coupe is one but also much more closely with his traveling companions together than in the open "Plazkártny" compartments. Are alone then you have happiness if the people are nice, and pitch, if not - there are few opportunities for evasion, except perhaps to stand in the corridor and look out the window or sit in the dining car. My
three travel colleagues turn out to be real men, strong, accustomed to physical labor, all "pa djelám" on the way, that kind of business. As soon as it is getting light outside, even include a bottle of vodka and a glass of sour pickles on the table. It stumbles, gets to know itself. I sit on my bunk and I am engrossed in a thriller by Akunin will, but invited me to associate with. My reason, I do not drink "like Putin, too," is accepted without question. The conversation is loud and emotional, the male, somewhat coarse-chummy tone that is appropriate in such situations, I have learned by now. We asked who Alaska to the Americans has sold - it was Alexander II in 1867, but the guys are firmly of the opinion that it was Ekaterina the Great. Violent emotions arise when the talk turns out that Russia has recently part of a small island in the Amur at Khabarovsk (Ussuriiskij Ostrow) ceded to China. "Russia to give away land that we must never do! Mess! And certainly not at this slit eyes ..." A more serious young man who is pushed out another coupe to us, asks me what I would do as a representative of Western culture is surely to increase the motivation to work in Russia. He was foreman on a farm, and his men would help not quite hopeless, to encourage them to more effective and motivated work somehow ... Before long, the second bottle of vodka on the table. Received from the train conductor tea glasses are turned into vodka glasses, meat and potatoes come to that, I am prompted to access, bare hand, "We in Russia do you do it so nje stisnjáisa" (such as: do not need you to hold back). Under the motto "One bottle is not enough, two and three are too much about right" are the boys after dark in the third bottle arrived. Every 10 minutes they go to the "Tambur," the platform at the end of the car where smoking is allowed in all Russian long-distance trains. I have now shown I am a guy with whom you can talk naturally, so I'm waiting on the third bottle is not even and forgave me back up. In my head I try to be accountable - and nearly half a liter of 40-proof alcohol per person throughout the day, not bad, especially surprising that signs of loss of control by his colleagues are hardly notice it.
The language of my traveling companion is a little different from what I'm used to hearing in most cases. About every fifth word is a filler word is sprinkled. It sounds like this - I translate and only leave the expletive in the original: "As I went down to the river blját pisdjéz and waited out the fishing and spend hours blját blját and finally pisdjéz such a pike! "
is in these filler words it is the vocabulary of the" Russian mat ", the Russian curse language, which is considered non-official and not at all above board, but from something simple structured men often used, when they are alone with no female companion, the Russkij mat included in the core four words, which are then used in a variety of combinations and expanded and I am the scientific completeness want to list again. "blját" (whore), "pisdjéz ( term for the female sexual organ), "chui" (name for the male sex organ) und "jibát" (Verb mit der Bedeutung "Geschlechtsverkehr treiben"). Russen nennen das auch "nichtnormative Lexik". Mit diesen Wörtern kann man sein Gegenüber auf das allergröbste beleidigen, man kann sie aber auch einfach in seine Rede einstreuen, um ihr eine Art von männlicher Kernigkeit zu verleihen. Natürlich gibt es auch im Deutschen vulgäre Ausdrücke, aber eine vergleichbar komplexe und emotionsgeladene Fluchsprache wie das "Russkij mat" hat die deutsche Sprache nicht zu bieten.

Für mich als Ausländer ist es sicher von gewisser Bedeutung, so etwas zu verstehen, wenngleich diese Begriffe natürlich niemals in den aktiven Wortschatz übergehen sollten.
Literaturtipp: Kauderwelsch Volume 213: Russian slang. Travel KnowHow-Verlag 2009

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